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You’ve inherited a tired rear garden in Chelmsford or are replacing a wind‑blasted run on the Essex coast — now you need a fence that lasts. If you’re a DIYer, landlord or small contractor in the UK, this guide gives a clear sequence: measure accurately, pick the right concrete posts for each junction, allow for slopes, and produce a precise order list so materials arrive once and fit first time.
In our experience, most delays come from guessing centres, under‑ordering gravelboards or misplacing 3‑way posts. Read on for practical checks, ordering tips and the common traps to avoid. Essex Concrete and Fencing draws on local ground knowledge to keep recommendations practical for clay, coastal and suburban sites.
People often treat every post as identical. A corner, an end and a 3‑way post play different structural roles — plan them on your sketch rather than adapting on site.
If you’re fitting a decorative, very short garden fence under 0.9m or installing metal palisade on commercial sites, some spacing and footing rules here won’t be relevant. For listed buildings or conservation areas, check local planning rules first.
Decide build method first. Slotted concrete posts with panels speed installation and make future swaps easy; closeboard is site‑built and better for heavy duty or uneven ground. Pick finished height and privacy level now, then sketch straight runs, L‑shapes, T‑returns and any level changes.
Check permissive heights for your location — rear gardens often allow up to 2.0m, fronts differ. See our guide to 2m fence height regulations in the UK for specifics. If you’re weighing post types, read our post comparison on concrete slotted posts vs timber.
Set two stakes and a tight string line for each segment; work from that baseline with a 30m tape. Measure post centres along the string and note total lengths. Walk the line to mark trees, manholes and buried services — a common issue we see is ordering posts that foul underground obstacles.
A simple scaled sketch saves time later: show each length, returns, steps and gate openings with exact widths for hinges and latches.
Use corner posts at sharp angles, end posts at run starts/finishes or where the line meets a wall, and inter posts along straights. Where one fence meets another mid‑run, order a 3‑way post to keep slots tidy and the structure strong.
For straight runs, count concrete inter posts to match your bay number and add corners, ends and 3‑ways from your sketch. If you need specific parts, see our concrete inter posts product pages.
This image was generated with AI and may not always represent the product or service exactly.
Plan 1.83m centres for standard panels but confirm exact panel widths as some decorative items vary. For closeboard choose a consistent bay, often 2.4m or 2.7m, and keep rails level over posts. If a run doesn’t divide evenly, place the short bay by an end or gate to keep the main line regular.
Check finished height including gravelboards. Browse our fence panels and pair them with concrete gravelboards to protect timber from ground moisture.
On gentle slopes rake closeboard to follow the ground; with panels step the bays so tops stay straight and gravelboards remain level. Always place steps at post locations, not mid‑bay, and align top edges for a neat finish.
Where a stepped return meets a straight run, a 3‑way post makes junctions clean and strong. Stick to standard gravelboard heights where possible to avoid awkward cuts.
Use concrete end posts against brickwork or buildings and add packers where necessary. For timber gates that need through‑bolts you may prefer a timber gate post, but concrete posts are lower maintenance if hardware allows.
Gate posts bear higher loads — dig wider, brace until concrete cures and check swing paths before setting the second post to avoid binding once hardware is fitted.
In Essex clay and exposed coastal sites increase depth and width. For 1.2–1.5m fences we typically use 600–750mm depths; for 1.8–2.0m increase to 750–900mm and go deeper in soft or saturated ground. Bell out the base and add 50–75mm compacted gravel for drainage before the post mix.
Keep posts plumb to a tight string line. In clay we advise shedding water away from the post base and doming the concrete top. Choose a reliable post mix and follow set times — our post mix product guidance helps pick the right material.
This image was generated with AI and may not always represent the product or service exactly.
Turn your sketch into a shopping list: count inters on straights, corners at turns, 3‑ways at tees and returns, plus end and gate posts. Total bays and match panels and gravelboards. For closeboard include cant rails, feather edge boards, cleats and fixings.
Order 10–15% extra boards for cuts and site waste. Add consumables — post mix, spacers, caps, PPE — and flag delivery access needs so materials reach the work area without extra lifts.
Example 1: 12m L‑shape with 1.83m panels split 6m/6m — plan three bays per leg and the shared corner post. Example 2: 10.5m stepped run at 1.83m centres gives five full bays plus a short bay; place steps at posts and keep gravelboards level. Example 3: 9m main run with a 3‑way at bay 2 to form a 4.5m return — place short bays near ends to maintain rhythm through the centre.
Set end, corner and 3‑way posts first to control the line. Pull a tight string and mark all centres before digging. Concrete, plumb and brace each post, then allow an initial set before slotting panels or fixing rails. Small corrections are easier early on.
Install gravelboards first, then panels or closeboard rails and boards. Leave 50–75mm clearance under timber. Finish with caps and a final plumb and level check along each face. For extra practical tips, see our blog from Essex Concrete and Fencing.
Closeboard suits uneven ground because you can rake rails to follow contours. Panels work where you can step bays at posts. In our experience, panels are faster but require careful step planning.
For 1.8m panels with a gravelboard, order posts around 2.4m. Increase length for stepped runs, taller panels or deeper footings in soft clay. Always confirm exact measurements against your gravelboard choice.
Reuse only if footings are sound, correctly positioned and at the right centres. More often it’s quicker and straighter to dig new holes to your string line, especially if the old footings predate your planned layout.
Allow the concrete to gain an initial set — several hours with fast‑set mixes. In cold or wet weather wait longer. The post should resist hand pressure and be plumb before you load it with panels or rails.
Leave 50–75mm under timber to prevent rot and allow airflow. Concrete gravelboards can be lower if the site has suitable drainage; always check local ground conditions first.
