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Picture this: you turn up to a Dedham allotment in spring to find neat beds undermined by rabbit runs and a sagging boundary where sheep have been leaning. If you manage an allotment plot, smallholding or community garden in North Essex, this guide is for you. In our experience, the right mesh, skirt and tensioning stop most problems before they start. Read on to get clear, practical choices for mesh sizes, post foundations and gates that fit Dedham and Ardleigh soils and weather.
Before you start, check local rules for roadside or public boundaries at 2 m fence height regulations in the UK, and pick materials suited to our climate with guidance on choosing fence materials in Essex.
Aperture size is the key. Aim for 19–31 mm mesh; 19–25 mm at ground level to stop young rabbits. In our experience, galvanised 19g–16g wire balances durability and handling. For paddocks, stock nets such as 8/80/15 or 6/90/30 work well for sheep and cattle—add a rabbit apron underneath if rabbits are present. For mixed sites, see options in our equestrian and agricultural fencing range.
Bury skirts 200–300 mm vertical or form a 300–450 mm outward apron and peg every 300–500 mm. A common issue we see is raised skirts that invite digging—keep mesh tight to the soil with overlaps pinned flat. Where water and silt collect, pin the apron into compacted stone for longer life.
This image was generated with AI and may not always represent the product or service exactly.
Use 2.5 mm high‑tensile for top and mid lines and add extra lines where animals push (150–200 mm spacing in pressure zones). Always strain from solid end posts using proper straining assemblies. Fit gripples or ratchet strainers and re‑check tension after a week, then seasonally—Ardleigh clay moves and needs adjustment.
Set posts 600–750 mm deep (deeper on soft ground). Make holes about three times the post width and concrete to just above ground with a slight fall. Concrete slotted posts resist rot best; treated timber is lighter but keep rails off the ground. See our concrete post options at concrete slotted posts.
Keep the bottom gap tight with a gravelboard, sleeper threshold or a shallow concrete nib. Wrap rabbit mesh to the gate frame and extend the skirt across the gateway. Use adjustable hinges and secure bolts for gates used by tractors or quad bikes.
Run a taut top line wire and add droppers every 300–600 mm where stock lean. Use 30–40 mm galvanised staples angled with the grain and avoid over‑driving. Add a cant rail where animals press hard and avoid barbed wire near public paths and allotments for safety. Heavy galvanising and consistent fixes are what make a fence last.
This image was generated with AI and may not always represent the product or service exactly.
Ardleigh clay can heave—dig wider holes, use drainage gravel and pre‑drill through flints. Dedham floodplain runs need galvanised wire lifted off the soil with concrete gravelboards for longevity; check our concrete gravelboards at concrete gravelboards. In windy, exposed fields shorten post spacing to around 2.4 m and brace corners.
Essentials: fencing pliers, wire tensioner (gripples/ratchets), spade, rammer, string line, tape and PPE. Use galvanised 30–40 mm staples and tie wire. Re‑tension in spring and autumn, replace bent staples and clear grass from skirts. A strimmer guard along the base saves timber and mesh from accidental damage.
Essex Concrete and Fencing holds rabbit wire, stock net, line wire, chain link, concrete posts, gravelboards, gate sets and ironmongery. For a 50 m run at 2.4 m centres you’ll typically need ~21 intermediate posts, 2 straining assemblies and 2–3 rolls of mesh—check roll lengths and add posts for corners and gates. If you’re unsure, bring a sketch and we’ll size the bundle with you.
People assume taller equals better. In our experience, height without a secure skirt and good tension is useless—rabbits still burrow and stock still push. Fix the base first, then worry about height.
If you only have potted plants or lightweight raised beds on an upper‑floor balcony, heavy estate‑style fencing and concrete posts are overkill. Choose lighter, garden‑scale options instead.
Bring a sketch or measurements to Essex Concrete and Fencing and tell us about soil, water levels and likely stock. We’ll recommend a durable build with clear costs. For realistic cost comparisons, see our guide to fencing prices in Essex. We serve Dedham, Ardleigh and North Essex and encourage you to inspect materials before you buy.
Start at the base: fix skirts, pin overlaps and retension top wire. Secure the most pressured panels first (gates, corners, sections next to stock) and schedule post replacements in exposed corners.
Choose concrete where ground stays wet, flood risk exists or you need a low‑maintenance long‑term run. Timber is fine for short, sheltered stretches where you can inspect and replace decayed posts.
Add a 300–450 mm apron pinned into place or a 200–300 mm buried skirt, and ensure it is tight to the ground. These measures are cheaper and more effective than raising fence height alone.
Check tension after the first week, then at least twice a year (spring and autumn), and after extreme weather. Replace bent staples and re‑peg any loose skirt edges promptly.
Two capable people can fit posts and single mesh on a 50 m run in 1–2 days on average. Hire help if you have flinty ground, deep clay, or need precise straining on long runs—these conditions add labour and require specialist tools.
