- essexconcrete@hotmail.com
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Retrofitting replaces only failed timber posts and reuses sound panels. Work bay by bay so the boundary stays secure and disruption, waste, and cost are all reduced. Concrete slotted posts resist rot, wind and waterlogging, need minimal upkeep, and typically outlast timber in wet or exposed ground.
It’s a strong fit for Essex: clay that holds winter water, opens in summer, and coastal winds that test fixings. Concrete won’t rot and the slots take standard 1.83 m panels neatly. Retrofitting suits commercial sites with tight downtime and shared boundaries where privacy must be maintained. Swap out any panel with soft rails, broken stiles, or a twisted frame. For a direct comparison, see our guide to concrete slotted posts vs timber. Our approach: replace what fails and keep what works.
Confirm the legal boundary and ownership first. Check local height limits and street-facing rules; many gardens are capped at 2.0 m. If unsure, review our summary of 2 m fence height rules. Agree access times with neighbours and set a tidy, segregated work zone.
Locate and mark services before digging: gas, power, comms, and drains. Use PPE (gloves, goggles, hearing protection, steel-toe boots). Plan temporary bracing on windy or coastal sites. Manage manual handling: lift panels with two people and store upright on bearers. Keep routes clear of trip hazards and signpost site entries.
Inspect each bay. Tap rails for soft spots and check the frame is square. Look for cracked or loose boards, failed fixings, and rot at the lower edges. Closeboard and waney panels often reuse well if rails and stiles are sound. Replace any panel that’s racked out of square, has soft rails, or twisted frames.
Measure post centres and overall height. Many Essex runs use 1.83 m (6 ft) bays. Note ground fall and steps so you can plan gravelboards and finished levels. Assess soil: Colchester clays hold winter water and shrink in summer; chalk and gravel drain better. If timber sits near soil, specify concrete gravelboards to lift it clear. For hole sizing and drainage detail, see post depth and drainage in Colchester clays.
This image was generated with AI and may not always represent the product or service exactly.
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Browse our concrete slotted posts and compatible post mix to match height, exposure, and bay size.
Sketch the run with each bay length. Mark where the line stops, corners, or tees into another fence. Choose the right post at each point: end, corner, three-way, or intermediate. Pull a tight string at finished panel top and set a level datum so all bays align.
Check undulations. Use one or more gravelboards to keep a straight top while following the ground. Calculate post length from finished height plus embedment. Order posts, corners/3‑ways, and gravelboards accordingly. For layouts and selection, see planning runs with inters, corners and 3‑way posts.
Work one to two bays at a time. Brace panels at roughly 45° with timber props screwed to the frame and to stakes in firm ground. Use tarps on shared boundaries if you must open a bay for longer. Do not rely on old posts once cutting starts.
Cut rotten posts flush if required, then break out old concrete carefully without levering on panels. Label panels by bay so they go back where they fit. Stack upright on bearers, off the soil, and strap to prevent falls. Keep bracing until new posts are set and the concrete has taken initial set.
Size holes 200–250 mm diameter. Aim for embedment around one‑third of post length: typically 600–750 mm for 1.8–2.0 m fences, more on exposed sites. In heavy clay, keep sides neat and avoid bell-bottoms that trap water. Add 75–100 mm of compacted gravel to the base for drainage.
Offer the post to the string line. Check plumb both ways and set slot heights to match across bays. Backfill in lifts with post mix or site concrete, rodding each lift to remove air. Form a slight crown around the post to shed water. Respect initial set before loading panels, and allow longer cure in cold or wet weather. Leave braces in place until concrete is firm.
This image was generated with AI and may not always represent the product or service exactly.
Fit gravelboards first and level them for consistent ground clearance. Use small packers to seat boards and remove rattle without crushing timber. For closeboard, rails face inwards; ensure fixings are tight. For waney panels, confirm the frame is square before sliding into the slots.
Lift panels into the slots and pack discreetly so they sit snug without bowing. Leave a small gap above gravelboards for drainage. Treat any cut timber ends. If adding trellis, ensure fixings clear the slots. Browse compatible sizes in our concrete gravelboards.
Sight the line from both ends. Posts should be plumb; panel tops should follow the string. Bay widths even, panels square in the slots. Confirm packers are secure, fixings tight, and 50–75 mm ground clearance under timber. Check water sheds away from each post.
Keep traffic and loads off fresh concrete for 24–48 hours; extend in cold or wet weather. Expect near-full strength at seven days and full cure by 28 days. Plan an annual check: tighten loose screws, keep soil/mulch off timber, and rinse salt spray in coastal areas.
Budget per bay: two concrete posts, one gravelboard, concrete, and labour. Retrofitting is usually cheaper than full replacement because serviceable panels are reused. Include disposal for failed posts and any rejected panels. You avoid buying a full set of new panels when many still have years left.
A two-person crew in normal ground completes around 3–5 bays per day, fewer in hard dig or tight access. Stop patching and replace panels when rails are soft, frames are twisted, or more than 30–40% of panels fail inspection. You’re welcome to view products in person to confirm sizes and finishes before ordering.
Don’t set shallow posts in shrink–swell clays. Avoid pouring into waterlogged holes without a gravel base. Don’t load panels before the concrete has taken initial set. Poor curing and trapped water lead quickly to movement and frost damage.
Use the correct post at each junction. An intermediate where a corner or 3‑way is needed creates a weak point. Keep temporary bracing on windy, open, or coastal sites and work in short sections. Align slot heights carefully so panels sit level across the run.
Yes—if rails and stiles are sound and the frame is square. Replace cracked boards and treat cut ends. Swap the panel if rails are soft or the frame is twisted.
Back garden fences are commonly 1.8–2.0 m. Check local rules before exceeding 2.0 m or adding trellis on top, especially near highways or front gardens.
Light handling is fine after 24–48 hours in mild weather. Plan for strong winds at seven days, with full strength by 28 days. Extend times in cold or wet conditions.
In Essex clays and along the coast, yes. Gravelboards lift timber off wet ground, reduce rot, and keep a clean, level line over uneven terrain.
In normal ground, a two-person team completes roughly 3–5 bays, including removals and setting. Hard dig, tight access, or complex corners slow the rate.
